Stoked!

I am stoked about this trip to the Tower! For me, this is a new challenge that doesn't involve running. Marathons are no joke, but I know what to expect after finishing one. Close friends and family ask how the race went, and all is forgotten a week later. Do they even know how far a marathon is and how tough miles 18-26 are? That's where climbing comes in. I'm excited again like I was for my first road race. Most people don't feel safe climbing a ladder, much less a rock formation that towers almost 1,300 feet above the ground. Everyone I've talked to thinks we're "nuts." It's funny how people perceive things. Climbing is probably much safer than running miles and miles on the side of a road. I look forward to the sense of accomplishment we're going to feel when we reach the top. I'm guessing it will be similar to what Medvetz felt when he was able to summit Everest with a broken hand. Did you know he has a steel cage in his back?

Devil's Tower August 15th, 2008 - Durrance Route

Durrance 5.7 Devils Tower

First put up by Jack Durrance and Harrison Butterworth in 1938, this route is one of the 50 classic climbs. The climbing is unique in that there are a lot of wide cracks and full body movements in some wild positions. Taking this route to the summit is not your average trip for a Devils Tower visit. On the summit you can see Wyoming, the Black Hills of South Dakota, and probably into Montana on a clear day.



Ptich 1) The Leaning Column. Start the fun by climbing up the face then get between the column and the main Devils Tower mass. There are some fixed pins, but I like to keep all my climbing gear clipped to the main mass. Don't push the column over. When the column falls the tourist at Devils Tower will get to see an event that only happened every 10,000 years or so. I just don't want to be the climber riding that big hunk of rock to ground. (approx. 80 feet)

Pitch 2) The Durrance Crack. Throw yourself into the right crack while stemming out to make things more easier. As with most routes on Devils Tower, stemming is your friend. Use the stances to place gear and rest. I like to have 2 large cams to use near the top where it gets wide. Placing a #4 Black Diamond, and a #5 Friend as your last 2 pieces of climbing gear will protect you as good as possible as make the scary stem over to the anchors. (approx 70 feet)

Pitch 3) Cussing Crack. As soon as you jump into this thing you will understand the name. It looks so easy, but on a hot sweaty day, pay plenty of attention to this pitch. The gear is not all that comforting. A small cam behind the flake on the left is about all you get. Pulling your pack and any gear you don't need up this pitch will cut down on the cussing while climbing. Once you reach the first ledge, traverse right and head up the wide crack to the ledge and anchors. (approx 40 feet)

Pitch 4) Flake Crack. Climb up and right above the anchors and ledge. I'm always waiting for one of these pieces to come off in my hand. Place your gear with caution. (approx 40 feet)

Pitch 5) Chockstone Crack. Take the chimney to the chockstone overhang near the top. Jam a hand on either side of it, look for the foot holds behind you and climb over it. (approx 40 feet)

Pitch 6) There are two options at this point.
Take the Jump Traverse. From the anchor head right and down a little to an exposed and exciting step or jump to right. (This white guy don't jump) From there you take the Meadows "trail" to the summit. If you are doing your first Devils Tower assent, I'd take this way. Its fun and classic. Don't be afraid to keep a rope on and place a few pieces of climbing gear, as falling to the base of Devils Tower from the exposed fourth class Meadows route is not a very glory filled way to go.